Books, beignets, and "big ass beer" in The French Quarter

On the way from the Louis B. Armstrong airport to the French Quarter, one of the first things you notice in New Orleans (besides the above-ground cemeteries) is the Superdome's new-temporary roof covering. Our cab driver said the roof was one of the city's first highly visible accomplishments in the wake of Hurricane Katrina: "It is such a symbol--and with a new roof, it helps the people feel better, more hopeful."



In the French Quarter, one of the first things I noticed was that it's completely legal to walk around with open containers of beer and other alcoholic beverages. In the past these streets would have been packed. Today the police seem to outnumber the revelers.



We're staying at The Inn on Bourbon Street, and our second floor room has a wide balcony with amazing east and west views of the street. A few strings of Mardis Gras beads are strewn about, and Christmas decorations hang from the iron railing. Yesterday afternoon (and evening, and night) music emanated from several uncrowded bars and bead shops, pounding the bricked streets.

Across the way, I couldn't help but notice three businesses advertising topless and "bottomless" dancers, "female impersonations," and "famous sex acts." In fact, the busiest places on Bourbon Street (other than bars) are all advertising entertainment of the naked kind. We didn't go inside any of those, but I took some pics of the exterior signs to post later (maybe, if I can figure out how to post a slide show).

Instead, I peeked into all of the t-shirts and beads shops, bought myself a "big ass beer," and wandered down Bourbon Street to stare at all the neon and look for live music. For dinner, we decided on the Court of Two Sisters and ordered the delicious Louisiana Shrimp Creole and Crabmeat Au Gratin.

Today, the loud music started up again around eleven a.m., and we took a walk over to Jackson Square (statue and cannons), enjoyed café au lait and hot beignets at Café Du Monde (open 24 hours), and browsed through books (including rare and signed first editions) at the Faulkner House bookstore in Pirate's Alley. I picked up a copy of Faulkner's New Orleans Sketches, and Dawn (working on her master's in Art Therapy) bought a small, signed children's book intended to help kids deal with the recent hurricane: Catte Au Lait: The Big Hurricane, story by Sean Gerowin and illustrated by Karoline Schleh-Gerowin. Later, we ate gumbo and po' boys at the Gumbo Shop on St. Peters for lunch.